Posted by Mark Silva at 12:37 pm EDT
PRAGUE -- Martin, the young guide and university student who walked us through both the old and new quarters of Prague, suggested that there is no question about public opposition to the radar installation which the United States wants to place in the Czech Republic, along with a missile installation in Poland, as part of a European defense shield designed primarily to protect against Iranian threats.
It's easy to understand why people here might be uneasy about the proposition -- with 60 percent opposed, according to the BBC. Martin's father, Hubert, stood with us in the old square of the "New Town'' of Prague -- that would be the part built after 1348 -- and painted a vivid word picture for us of the Russian tanks that rumbled through the square in 1968, shooting people at random, just as the Nazis had once invaded.
Now Russian President Vladimir Putin, portraying the new U.S. missile defenses as provocative, has started testing his own missiles and threatening that he might start aiming them toward Europe again. And people around Prague aren't too comfortable with that.
"The population is not enthusiastic yet,'' conceded Alexandr Vondra, Czech deputy prime minister for European affairs, addressing reporters arriving in Prague. "If they proposed to build a radar behind your farmhouse, you'd probably have to think twice... I believe we will shift the public opinion. We have time. Nothing should be concluded right now.''
And as for those threats from Putin? "I think it's a typical Russian game,'' Vondra said. "He's trying to extend the influence again in Central and Eastern Europe -- nothing new. I don't think the strengthening of the Russian muscles will work with the people here. We learn our lessons of history... We have time to explain to the Russians and explain that this (missile defense system) is not at all aimed against them. I believe, at the end of the day, the Russians will learn how to live with that.''
Follow us through Prague for a little more understanding about this place.
The town square of "New Town'' Prague, circa 1358, with the National Museum in the backdrop, the square where the Russians and the Nazis before them invaded. This and all other photos by Mark Silva
On the right bank of old Prague, the offices of the old Communist newspaper, the Red Truth, still stand. On the edge of the Old Town, a Communist museum has been converted to a bank..
In 1350, Prague was the third largest city in Europe, after Rome and Istanbul. This is one of the two remaining gates to the old city, the Dark Powder tower:
Mozart slept here, at the Golden Angel Hotel:
Mozart performed here, in the oldest town theater:
A random lovely building in Old Town Prague:
Churches ring the vast square of the old town, where outdoor beer gardens stand as welcome oases in a nation that has relatively little use for organized religion and a relatively high rate of alcohol consumption. Budvar, without doubt, is the king of beers here. But Pilsner Urquell does taste better, and they seem to have a monopoly on the beer umbrellas. And go figure, both the Bud they sell here and Urquell they sell here taste better than both back home.
This cobblestone square has served as the site of celebrations and executions alike, including the killing of 27 Bohemian noblemen in 1618, leading to the start of the 30-year war.
Franz Kafka attended school here:
Bill Clinton drank here -- "At the Golden Tiger'' is considered one of the old, down and dirty bars of old town Prague, and President Clinton enjoyed the place during a stay here:
Behind St. Nikolas in the old town square lies the old Jewish quarter, including the oldest synagogue. The Jewish community numbers only a few thousand, the synagogue memorializes the names of more than 80,000 Czechoslovak Jews who died during World War II.
Roman Catholics account for nearly 40 percent of the population, Protestants three percent. A large percentage of the Czech population claims to be atheists -- 40 percent -- and 16 percent describe themselves as uncertain.
The astronomical clock in the old town square dates to 1400. It depicts three kinds of time, including Bohemian time, it tracks the moon and the sun, and every hour on the hour 12 mechanical apostles come walking out of the clock.
They once hung the heads of the executed from the tower at the Charles Bridge, lined by 30 statues and swarmed with tourists.
President Bush will meet with Czech leaders tomorrow morning at Praque Castle, which sits high atop a hill overlooking the river and the old town. They will talk about radar, and they will talk about missiles and they will talk about the Russians. Vondra, the deputy prime minister, says this installation isn't scheduled until 2012, so there is time to talk.
"Nothing should be concluded right now,'' Vondra said. "The conversation with the United States has just started. We have months, maybe a year, to decide it.''
Of course, Bush will have a chance to talk about all this with Putin as well, at the Group of Eight summit that convenes Wednesday in Heiligendamm, Germany.
Prague Castle, circa 880:
Comments
First of all, many beautiful pictures there, Mark.
Now in regard to a shield and Russia. There no longer can be any doubt that Putin is nothing but a little dictator, who clearly has shortcoming issues. Russia under Putin has fallen to what it was until the late 1980s.
Why should Putin feel a shield and radar for Eastern Europe is such a threat to Russia? This is intended largely to proctect from loony Arab countries, and maybe a bit from an increasingly rogue Russia. But what is Putin afraid of? Or is he afraid that a defended Eastern Europe will make it toughter or impossible for Russia to rule Eastern Europe again?
Posted by: John D | June 4, 2007 1:42 PM
Hey, while you're there, check out the Museum of Communism. It's on Na Prikope, right next to the McDonalds.
Posted by: Cheryl | June 4, 2007 2:01 PM
The Museum of Communism is one of the Cheryl's favorite places! And John E.'s, Raving Loon's, Doug Zook's, JJ's, etc.
Posted by: John D | June 4, 2007 2:54 PM
The "great communicator" Ronald Reagan ends the cold war.
The great "divider" G. W. Bush starts it again.
Posted by: Steve34 | June 4, 2007 3:13 PM
John D: Note that in few lines you managed to both wonder why Russia is upset about the missiles and at the same time state that the defense is aimed at "rogue Russia". If the second is true, why is Russia's dislike surprising?
As for Arab missiles: none of the Arab countries has missiles with the range anywhere enough to hit the US. In the particular case or Iran, the missiles with the necessary range are not only NOT being manufactured, tested, or designed, but not even PLANNED. Why on Earth do we need a shield today against missiles that will definitely not be around in 20 more years? This simple fact clearly indicates to anyone who car read that our administration lies once again - and that's what makes Russia nervous.
Posted by: Vadim | June 4, 2007 3:29 PM
Earth to Vadim: The shield is to protect Eastern Europe from the missiles, not the U.S.
And I have a question or two for you: Would you say Putin is taking Russia down a dark road or no, and why or why not? What positive actions have taken place in Russia the past 5 years and what negative actions have taken place in the past 5 years? Is Putin a good guy or a bad guy, why and why not?
Posted by: John D | June 4, 2007 3:51 PM
Vadim, the shield is a NATO defense system for Europe, not the US mainland.
Posted by: Herbie H. | June 4, 2007 4:05 PM
Build a missile shield and I will transport my bomb on a cargo container. Or perhaps I will overrun the shields defense capabilities with hundreds of dummy warheads.
Posted by: Future terrorist | June 4, 2007 5:11 PM
Clearly, ordinary folks in Poland and the Czech Republic do not want to play the second round of the nuclear game between Moscow and Washington. It is equally clear that both Polish and the Czechs are not yet at the stage of democracy where the government represents the interests of the people. If the vast majority of the people are against having US strategic weapons in their country, but their government is going ahead with this plan anyway, then there is something fundamentally wrong with their democracy.
Posted by: Veniamin | June 4, 2007 5:54 PM
I will overrun the shields defense capabilities with hundreds of dummy warheads.
Posted by: Future terrorist | June 4, 2007 5:11 PM
------
More likely just with hundreds of dummies, like all the recently arrested "terrorists" in the US. Regarding the radar and missle installations, if only 60% of the people there are opposed, that won't even slow ol' g. dub down, evidence his actions versus the wishes of the majority of Americans.
Posted by: Bill H. | June 4, 2007 6:14 PM
At least the 'cold war' is a war we know how to fight. Maybe we can replace the 'war on terror' with it?
Let's start by cranking up US steel production.
Posted by: C.Morris | June 4, 2007 6:34 PM
Just like that, huh? US is intalling missiles to protect Eastern Europe? Spending millions of dollars in the altruistic drive? Why not to build missiles in Turkey? Wouldn't it make more sense?
This was intentially designed to snub Russia - part of seems to be blackmailing frenzy against Russia. I wish I could understand why. Old devide and conquer, perhaps? Hey, Chechs, don't tell me that English are closer to your heart than Russians? But your rulers have puppets mind and you are being intensively brainwashed.
Posted by: Alex | June 4, 2007 6:43 PM
Say what you will, Old Europe is gorgeous.
Posted by: C.Morris | June 4, 2007 6:49 PM
you are delusional if you think the US is spending 50 billion dollars a year to protect Poland from an Iranian missile that doesnt exist. They are doing it to eliminate the threat of a Russian second strike in the event of an American first strike. The Americans never abandoned the dream of complete nuclear dominance and even the limited assured destruction potential that Russia and China have is to much for them to deal with. The Russians lost nuclear parity with the US years ago and yet the Bush administration is willing to spend half a trillion dollars to contend with a Russian arsenal that continues to decline in size. Putin is NOT growing the arsenal. The Russians plan of cutting a further 1,000 warheads and 180 missiles from their delivery potential by the end of 2012. Their arsenal will be so small that they are legitimately worried that a 100 odd missile ABM system (the 10 missiles in Poland are but a small part of a larger system) will give the US a serious capability to render a Russian second strike impotent. Anyone who thinks Moscow is the aggressor today is insane. Putin is a "dictator" who is leaving office next March. Dictators dont leave office. Some people have a very twisted view of what is going on in Russia.
Posted by: Micharl | June 4, 2007 7:08 PM
I'm looking at Russia from an investor's prospective. It's truly a country that's risen from ashes to 10th economy in the world. With BRIC overcoming GDP of the G-6 by 2050, I see Russia as being one of the leading economies very soon. US is desperately trying to keep its place-d'arms and influence in Europe, but I it's pretty pathetic and clearly is toothless, with all resources wasted in Iraq and Iran. So, Forward, Russia!
Posted by: Forward Russia | June 4, 2007 7:24 PM
I will overrun the shields defense capabilities with hundreds of dummy warheads.
Posted by: Future terrorist | June 4, 2007 5:11 PM
congradulations on signing yourself up for the FBI watch list. Enjoy the remainder of the bush years!
Posted by: jeff y. | June 4, 2007 7:27 PM
As sung by Vlad and Shrub as they gaze longingly into each others eyes:
(Apology to;) The Guess Who Written by Randy Bachman and Burton Cummings These eyes lie every night for you These nuke arms long to hold you hostage..again The hurtin's on us, yeah And we will never be free, no, my baby, no no You gave a ABM promise to me, yeah An' you broke it, you broke it, oh no These eyes watched you bring the world to an end This heart could not accept and pretend The hurtin's on us, yeah And we will never be free, no, no, no You took the vow with me, yeah An' you spoke it, an' you spoke it
These eyes are cryin'
These eyes have seen a lot of wars
But they're never gonna see another cold one like I had with you
These eyes are lookin'
These eyes are lookin' into your soul
But they're never gonna see another Jesus like I had with you
Our spies, pry every night for you
These arms, these arms long to shock and awe you again
These eyes are cryin'
These eyes have seen a lot of
But their never gonna see another one like I had with you
Baby Dubbya!, baby, Vlad!
Don't ya know these eyes are cryin' every night
I need you back in my heart
Posted by: C.Morris | June 4, 2007 8:54 PM
Mark,
This is a test post, are you receiving it?
(John E:
Yes indeed. Post away.
-- Silva)
Posted by: John E | June 5, 2007 1:39 AM